Paget Peak - Frozen Winter Wonderland

Paget Peak
Field, British Columbia
November 21, 2010

Paget Peak is located a few kilometres east of Field BC (about 200km north west of Calgary) and just south of the Continental Divide.  It occupies the position at the southern end of the Mount Daly Range and is located directly west of Mt. Bosworth. Paget Peak also houses one of the first fire lookouts in Canada's national parks system, and that lookout is still there, and it is the trail to this lookout that takes you 3/5 of the way to the summit.

Looking for an easy scramble, a group of 10 of us decided to head out to Paget Peak knowing it was an easy scramble.  The drive to West Louise Lodge took just under 2 hours and we arrived at the trailhead just before 8AM.  The sky was clear and the wind minimal but the thermometer in the car was already reading -27C.  Several people decided to gear up outside the cars and quickly found the drinking tubes do not stand a chance in such cold temperatures as within a few minutes their drinking tubes were frozen solid.  This brought them back in the cars briefly to thaw out their tubes.

Paget Lookout

The trip begins along the trail to Sherbrooke Lake however, after about 1.5km the trail turns right and heads towards Paget Lookout.  With the deep snow, it took us about 25 to 30 minutes to come to the trail junction.  Snowshoes really made this quicker and the wide trail was visible even under the deep snow.  The trail after the junction gently switchbacked up the side of the mountain, however, the trees almost never provided a break and views were extremely limited.  We were hoping that as the day went on, the temperature would increase, but in fact the temperature continued to drop as a northern front moved in, add to that the gain of elevation and the chill was really starting to set in.  After about an hour-twenty, with cold extremities, we reached Paget Lookout.

Paget Lookout is about 3/5 of the way up Paget Peak and located by a cliff which provides awesome views to the south towards Wapta Lake, Mt. Stephen, Mt. Victoria, Lake. O'Hara and the Kicking Horse Valley. This unfortunately was the end of the trail for two of our members.  With our portable thermometer reading -37C, they decided their gear was unfit for this temperature and together descended with radio in hand to the West Louise Lodge for warm drink, food and rest.  The rest of the group took inventory of gear and attitudes and decided to continue to the summit (some likely should have tuned back, but summit fever is a wonderful thing).

 

 

Scrambling the rocks

Beyond the Lookout the trail ends and a rocky scree/talus slope with some rock bands lies between you and the summit.  This slope is quite deceiving as the summit is foreshortened, what looks like 100m vertical is in fact about 350m more as you are looking at the false summit.  In the deep snow, the trip up was slow.  Snowshoes were no longer much help (so they were stashed at the Lookout) and with the trail invisible under the snow (if there is one), the group broke into two teams and started switchbacking up the slope.  One team headed directly to the small rock bands, the other team decided to head left and skirted around them.  The climb up the slope was uneventful except for a few places where steps ended up with legs stuck between boulders and large rocks as snow was about mid-thigh depth.As we finally crested the ridge after the trudge up the steep slope and a short unnecessary scramble over the rocks, the snow depth decreased to about ankle depth, a telling tail of the high winds that scour the ridge.


Makeshift Summit Shot

Our summit visit as extremely short as our thermometer read -47C!!.  The view from the summit was however amazing.  In this frozen state and I don't think that I have been outside and had it so quiet before.  To me, this was the most calm I have had on a mountain. However, due to the cold, no one was interested in digging for the summit register, so we had a quick makeshift summit shot and then before we knew it, over half the group was already descending. The views of Mt. Bosworth, Mt. Victoria, Mt. Stpehen, Mt. Niles, Mt. Ogden and Cathedral Mountain with the white veil of snow was well worth the climb, unfortunately the temperatures had virtually sucked the batteries in our camera empty, so no panorama was taken.  In better weather, a hike along the ridge to a few higher easily accessible points would likely be a nice extension.

Descending

We followed our trail through the snow to descend back to the lookout.  It took about 35 minutes to descend to the Lookout working through the mine field of rocks.  We stopped in the lookout to refuel and have some drinks, unfortunately most drinks were frozen (except the warm hot chocolates).  The two thermos' of hot chocolate made their rounds as even the large mouth Nalgene bottles inside backpacks and wrapped in insulation were slushy.  After about 10 minutes in the Lookout (which is essentially a 4 walled structure with windows on three sides and benches) didn't provide much refuge from the base cold weather, as such it was still uncomfortable to sit in.  We descended the trail back to the West Louise Lodge .  On the way down the sun started to set behind Mt. Stephen , offering a nice soft glow.  At the trailhead we met up with the other two members who were comfy inside the West Louise Lodge.  We all ordered warm food and warm drinks before heading back to Calgary.

Passing out Hot Chocolate in the lookout

This trip proved to have some lasting effects on the team.  Of the eight members that summited this day, six ended up getting between first and second degree frostbite, mainly on the nose, ears and toes thanks to the extreme temperatures encountered.  Thankfully no permanent damage was done and the group eventually healed, however, such are the risks of winter mountain adventures.




Some other pictures of the trip.

Paget Peak Summit Cairn

Sitting on the summit

Cold Self-Summit Shot

Descending from summit

Sunset over Mt. Stephen

Snow Peak - September 4, 2011

Snow Peak

Kananaskis, Alberta
September 4, 2011

Burstall Pass has a tendency to captivate, empower  and leave visitors in awe.  It's a place that is great for reflection and perspective. As such it has quickly become one of my power zones, whether it be on banks of the Burstall Ponds, the precipices of Commonweath Peak, the slopes of Snow Peak or anywhere between.  But Snow Peak has a very strategic location amongst it all that provides in my mind some of the most stunning and authentic views in the Kananaskis region.  And it is this reason  that I find myself constantly drawn back to this area in all seasons. 

This was my first visit to Snow Peak after a scary winter ascent in the spring of 2011 where we triggered a class 2 avalanche shortly after leaving the summit. However, on this nearly perfect late summer day, avalanches were one of the furthest things from our mind. I was leading a group of friends and co-workers numbering 12 and had enlisted the help of a dear friend Jenn to help co-lead.  Our main goal was to hike to The Pass and have an alpine picnic, those that wished to continue to Snow Peak would break from the group and continue while those that wished to remain below on The Pass would stay.

Robertson Glacier

The first half of the hike to Burstall Pass is often congested and anti-climatic.  The trail pretty much parallels Burstall Creek and the Burstall Ponds (melt water from the Robertson Glacier as well as melt/run off from the surrounding peaks).  The first 4km of the trail is within trees and views are extremely limited, however, if you know where to take slight detours off the trail down to the Ponds, there are some very strategic scenic vista's.  If you are short on time, don't worry about the side trips, continue down the trail and after about 4km the path opens up to a wide gravel flat alluvial plain.  This is the first time you will get a good view of the surrounding peaks, mainly Mt. Birdwood, Pig's Tail and Commonwealth Peak to the North and Mt. Robertson and Whistling Rock Peak to the south. If weather is good, you will also get a good view of the Robertson Glacier. 

Almost full group photo

The gravel out wash plain provides a slight obstacle course of braided streams that change slightly every year.  Most of these can be jumped over but many people prefer bringing an extra pair of shoes or sandals for this area as normally the water is no more than knee deep.  I must admit that glacial melt water is very refreshing on the feet on the way back from The Pass.  While negotiating the gravel flats, just keep an eye out for the signs of the hiking trail.  Directly after the gravel flats you enter the trees again and begin the first real elevation gain.  It is at this point that I would recommend taking a rest and taking in the scenery.  Looking down the valley will also provide you views of Mt. Chester, The Fortress and Gusty Peak across the highway now far behind you.  This is the last time you will see this view until you are pretty much at the top of The Pass.



The next section of the trail takes you up about 160m in elevation over a distance of 1km before spitting you out into an elevated valley.  At this point Snow Peak dominates the view directly in front of you while you walk along the base of the impressive Mt. Birdwood.  A lot of people like to stop in this area for a rest and refreshment.  Our group did and a couple of us climbed some of the small slabs on the south side.  From here the trail, still quite obvious, bends and runs parallel Snow Peak before it starts the final 300m climb through trees to The Pass.  As this climb progresses the trees become more sparse and the views behind you start to open, its tempting to take photos here, but press on, you are closer than you think.  On the upper slopes, Mt. Sir Douglas comes into view, this rocky steep sloped monolith now dominates the southern landscape.  

 

View from Burstall Pass

By the time you reach Burstall Pass you'll probably be a little fatigued, but the view will be worth it.  Its high, clear of trees, quite popular and there is low risk of bears.  Mountains that you will see from The Pass are plenty such as: Mt. Birdwood, Mt. Assiniboine, Lunette Peak, Mt. Sir Douglas, Mt. Laval, Snow Peak, Commonwealth Peak, Mt, Chester and Mt. Vavasour.  This destination is a gem unto itself, however for those that wish to continue to the summit of Snow Peak need to just follow the ridge and climb up the broad scree-slope for another 450m. It was here that our team broke into two.  Arming each squad with a two-way radio a 10-person summit team decided to continue while a 2-person Pass Base Camp stayed back, relaxing in the warm weather and majestic scenery. 

 

Upon starting up the mountain you will leave the crowds behind and likely find yourself alone with your group on the slopes with the people on The Pass slowly shrinking to dots.The only two technicalities that you will encounter in the summer is a small cliff band below the summit and the potential of a large cornice.  The cliff band is not a problem, the cornice should be avoided at all times as a fall would unquestionably be fatal.  Winter ascents should always test avalanche conditions prior to starting an ascent.  As you ascend the views only get better as more peaks come into view.  Upon passing the cliff band(s) you reach a short ridge that leads to the summit where hundreds of other peaks come into view, the main mountains that now dominate are: Mt. Sir Douglas, Whistling Rock Peak, Mt. Assiniboine, Mt, Birdwood, Mt. Smuts, Mt. Murray, Mt. Warre, Mt. Chester, Mt. Laval, White Man Mountain and Mt. Leman.

Summit Shot

With no threats of inclement weather, our summit visit was extensive as we summitted in three waves (teams of 4,4,2).  One summit team tackled the cliff bands straight on, the second veered to the left and found a weakness directly beside the  steep cliffs (not recommended), myself and a co-worker were the third wave and stayed near the right and climbed the cliffs at their shortest point.  Due to health concerns we were also at least 20 minutes behind the 2nd summitting group. 
The route down is pretty much follows the same trail as you come up, however the scree mainly allows you a quick descent.  Just ensure that you are below the cliff bands if you wish to go off trail.  After reconvening with our two team members we followed the same trail in as we did out passing hikers that were still heading up to The Pass exchanging friendly hello's and encouraging them that they were almost there. 

 

Descending the summit looking towards Mt. Sir Douglas

 

Round trip is about 18km and 900m elevation gain, but a view that you will likely remember for a very long time.  While crossing back over the gravel flats our group was given an awesome moonrise behind Mt. Robertson, but the presents didn't stop there. On the way en route to Canmore for a bite to eat our group was treated to the sight of a mother Coyote and her 3 pups playing on the side of the road as well as a deer.

 



Moonrise over Mt. Robertson



Coyote mother watching over her pups

I'm still debating if the views are better in the summer or the winter...all I know is both are fabulous and this definitely won' be my last summit of this mountain.

 

Profile of GPS for Snow Peak.  GPS batteries ran out before completing descent.

 

 

Commonwealth Peak Jan 7 2011

Commonwealth Peak
Kananaskia Alberta
August 7, 2011




Commonwealth Peak as viewed from marsh below

Commonwealth Peak is located in Kananaskis Alberta, located 45km west on Spray Lakes Road from Canmore.This was my second attempt on this peak.  The first attempt was late October 2010 as the team and I looked to take advantage of the low water levels as well as unseasonably warm weather.  Unfortunately this ascent came up about 125m short of the summit, stopping at the final gully just below the final upclimb due to abundance verglas and an abrupt turn in weather.

As it turns out, the marsh and braided stream crossings were not that much of an issue, I would however recommend that for people wishing to do this scramble that they bring an extra pair of shoes, or better yet, sandals for the crossing.

We followed the Burstall Pass Trail for about 3km and then descented to the wetland to the right of the trail aiming directly to the drainage between Commonwealth Peak and Piggy Plus.  We worked our way through the marsh where the water was only mostly an inch or two deep,  however, the braided streams were running well and had water near mid-thigh deep.  These were easily jumped across.  

Alpine Meadow

Once across the marsh we hiked directly into the young trees directly left of the drainage.  Up to this point, elevation gain is negligable.  The bushwack through the young forest was one of the most dense bushwhacking undertakings that I had done.  A note for the future is to stay to the left of the young forest and start the climb through the mature trees where underbrush is much more sparse.
After about an 30 minutes of bushwacking that felt like a lot more, we found ourselves in an alpine meadow filled with the marvelous colours of wildflowers and a few bunblebees.  We decided that this was a reat place for a foodéwater break and not being in a hurry spent time admiring nature.  After a relaxing rest and several pictures, we continues upwards and quikly found ourselves above the treeline and staring a scree slope dead on.  Thankfully there was still some snow patches lingering on this ascent that added a nice change from the constant plodding up the scree.  An intesting feature of this scree slope was the abrupt change in scree color running directly up the middle.



View from Commonwealth Col.  Robertson Glacier between
Mt¸. Robertson and Mt. Sir Douglas dominate middle of frame.

After plodding up the scree slope we ended up at Commonwealth Col.  Upon turning around we saw what was arguably the most awe-inspiring view you can see in the Burstall Pass area.  Looking towards Mt. Robertson and Mt. Sir Douglas we were presented the Robertson Glacier in all its glory, including the alluvial outwash plain. We decided that this was a great scenic place for a refuelling pit stop and quick;y forgot about the scree we just cam up.
Upon leaving the col we headed up a gully that was not surprisingly, filled wih more scree and in some places scree on slab We donned our helmets and stayed close to the cliffs as we worked our way up.  As this gully turned left and continued up, it became much more narrow and the scree deeper and more loose.  Most of us at this point decided climbing up the rocks to the left and negotiating the rock spine was easier the the 2-step forward 1-step back scree plod.  This final gully lead to the bottom of a 15m near-vertical upclimb which spits you out on the summit ridge.  



15 metre climb to summit ridge

We tackled this climb one at a time making sure to be very vocal when rocks were knocked down (it was quite loose in locations).  We had our two strongest climbers bookend the rest of the team on the way up in case some people found it daunting.  Overall there were no difficulties climbing this last section, minus some rockfall, which is also why we staggered our climbs.

Once on the summit ridge, it was about a 2 minute walk to the actual summit. Eventhough this isn`t a major summit, the view is exceptional. I would rank it as one of the best that you get overall in the area. When we arrived at the summit and opened the register we found that this really isn`t a popular peak,and the register is the original one left by Alan Kane in 1997. It is sad that this peak is often overlooked however crossing and all the scree we can understand why.

This mountain is definately worth a revist in the near future.






Narrow gully

Summit Ridge

Close-up of up climb



Our summit registry entry



Summit Shot





Alan Kane register entry

 

Ha Ling Peak - A Canmore Classic

Standing behind Canmore like a sentinel, Ha Ling has become a classic Canmore Hike/Scramble.  On the scrambling scale, Ha Ling barely registers, on the hiking scale it ranks in as a difficult.  From the front the foreboading cliff of Ha Ling seems inpeneterable, but what reveals itself on the backside is a somewhat moderate slope.  It is this slope that attracts the people from Calgary and Canmore to Ha Ling. 

In late June, I decided that I would, along with some friends, hike up Ha Ling.  It would be my first hike/scramble since Prairie Mountain on March 5 (almost 4 months ago).  None of the group members besides myself had done this trip previously and I thought it would be a great way to get my mountain legs back.  So on July 2nd we decided we would have an outing and call it Scotch On The Rocks, named for the drink we would have while sitting on the summit.  The hike began modestly as it always does, climbing through trees along switchbacks on a well defined trail.  Stepping over some roots and around trees adds a bit of excitement to the otherwise monotonous forest hike.  After about half an hour, the trail will begin to provide the first glimpses of the Goat Range and Mt. Rundle before finally breaking the treeline in about an hour and a half.  Take time to have a breather at the viewpoints in the forest if you like (we did) but don't dwell too long, the views only get better - and Ha Ling is pretty much all about the views.

From just above the treeline the path splits into several, all leading to the summit on multiple angles.  You have the choice to beeline it stright tot he summit on some loose scree, or you can continue to use the well grooved switchbacks.  Once the summit is in view, the mountain holds no tricks, its just a matter of hiking the way up to the summit along one of several scree trails.  The col provides a good teaser to what the summit will provide.  We met a group there and I urged them to continue, suffice it to say, they were greatful that they took the advice and continued the extra 10-15 minutes to the true summit.

Our group decided to leave early to try and avoid the crowds for which Ha Ling is famously known for.  On the way up to the summit we shared the trail with about 3 other groups and found ourselves virtually alone on the summit while we rested and took in the awesome scenery of the Bow Valley.  On the descent however, the masses were marching up relentlessly one after the other.  Without exaggerating, I would not be surprised if we passed close to 100 hikers on our way down and close to a dozen dogs.  Children as young as 5 were making this hike - which goes to show the difficulty of it. 

Unfortunately I do not have a great photo journal of this hike (there isn't exactly a lot to see until the summit) but don't be fooled, on a clear sunny and partially warm day, the summit offers some majestic vistas for the amount of effort put forth.  Our summit day provided us with partly cloudy skies and some decent winds blowing off the snowed-in mountains to the west.  This wind cause us to opt for a few heavier layers as we sat having lunch on the summit.

The total distance is about 6.5km and the total elevation gained is 729m and from car to car took us about 4.5 hours with a decent summit stop. 

Group Picture From Col

View From Summit Towards Calgary

Gear Review - Eddie Bauer First Ascent Summit Mitts

Eddie Bauer states that their First Ascent Summit Mitt is "a choice for high-altitude climbers venturing into inhospitable places, this mitt ensures that your digits stay toasty warm even in severe weather." I was about to put that to the test.

Living in Alberta, I have come to the foregone conclusion that cold is just a part of life - especially if I want to enjoy the mountains. You can either learn to enjoy it or hibernate for 6 months of the year. You see, Calgary sits at 51N meaning that come winter, the Polar Jet stream often sits to the south, bringing with it arctic air masses and freezing temperatures that can plummet into the -30s. In the mountains these freezing temperatures can be compounded by extreme winds and elevation that can drop temperatures down to the -50s, causing frostbite and hypothermia in minutes.

For several seasons I was grappling with keeping my digits warm during those winter excursions. I had tried many brands and types of hand protection. I had always been a person that preferred gloves to mitts. To me, the tradeoff of dexterity to warmth was enough to keep my fingers isolated. I managed well with polypropylene liners and thinsulate gloves for most of the time. The gloves allowed my fingers to move independently and grasp things and when they got cold, I would pull them into the palm of the glove, move them around and warm them back up. It was a minor inconvenience but one I was willing to pay. I have to admit though, in temperatures of warmer than -20C, the glove/liner combo did well. But what about the times when as you ascended the temperatures continued to fall?

When temperatures dipped below -20C, I turned to a hiking favourite - oxygen activated carbon hand warmers. These don't add a lot of heat, and having them in the palm of your hand really can be very uncomfortable. So I went out and bought a pair of gloves that have a pocket for hand warmers that fit over the back of your hand. Was this to be my saving glove? I decided to put it to the test. In late November a group of friends and outdoor enthusiasts decided to hike to the summit of Paget Peak - as we pulled into the trailhead parking lot just outside Trail BC, the thermometer on my car read -36C and the summit was still 900m above where we were standing, and it was barren - meaning no trees to act as a windstop. As we gained elevation and broke free of the trees the temperature started its decline fairly quickly, finally coming to a rest at -43C on the summit. The sheer cold of the day was only offset buy the spectacular brillance of a clear windless summit, but the gloves with their liners and handwarmers were not doing the job. I found my hands clenched inside the palm of the gloves almost the entire trip. I had even somehow developed a technique of holding my ice axe with my hands clenched. Totally not safe but it gave my finger some warmth. What I took away from that trip (minus moderate frostbite on my nose) was that gloves just didn't cut the cold and that I was going to buy a pair of gloves, not just any gloves...a good warm pair of gloves, ones that did the job.

Thus my quest for a mitt had begun. Having worked in an Outdoor Camping & Hiking store previously, I knew what I had in mind and what companies had what out there. I had also read reviews from the net, talked to people about their experience with mitts and even tested out several makes and styles. I had my eye on the Black Diamond Mercury Mitt when I cam across the First Ascent Summit Mitts while shopping for some base layers at my local Eddie Bauer (they're base layers are also top notch). The first thing that stood out was the colour. One thing I have been moving more towards in my outdoor wardrobe is brighter colours, these can prove invaluable in times of distress. After the colour the next thing I looked at was the insulation - and this is where I fell in love. The Summit Mitt boasts a dual-layer primaloft shell with a removable 550-fill goose down liner, both lined with a wool-poly blend. Talk about the best of both worlds. Primaloft has one of the highest warmth-to-weight ratios of any current synthetic insulation, it also retains more of its thermal capabilities when wet - which is why I think Eddie Bauer/First Ascent hit a home run using it on the outside and having the down in the liner. The Summit Mitts also contain a durable leather palm for extra grip and abrasion resistance. So after waiting for the Eddie Bauer Anniversary sale, I purchased the mitts and promptly put them to the test. The mitts sell for $149 CAD.

It was the middle of the week when I received them from Eddie Bauer (free Fed-Ex Shipping) so I had to try them in an urban setting first. The temperature was -32C with windchill and wearing them while walking to work was great. My hands never felt the cold, nor did they sweat like some reviewers have experienced. This past weekend I decided to try them on an alpine hike, it was much more mild but the temperature still came in at a chilly -26C. Standing alone on the summit of Prairie Mountainwith the wind blowing - my hands were warm. The only drawback I found was these mitts are huge and cumbersome to work in. Thankfully Eddie Bauer added wrist straps so when you pull the liners out of the shell, you are stil wearing a 550-fill down glove and the shell cannot blow away. The fact that you can remove the inner lining and separate the gloves is an added benefit - and as the liner gloves are less bulky, but still wind-resistent, warm and they give you more dexterity to tinker with small things like zippers on backpack and nozzles on stoves. They even have leather added to the underside of them for added durability and grip. When its time to put the shell back on, the liner just slips easily inside and velcroes securely into place.

Eddie Bauer/First Ascent definately in my opinion hit a home run with the First Ascent Summit Mitts, though I guess though with names like Ed Viesturs, Dave Hahn and Peter Whittaker behind the brand it ought to be good.

SUMMARY

PROS

• Built-in flexibility
• Lightweight and warm
• Packability (can be "squished" easily)
• Windproof/waterproof
• Wrist straps to keep shell/glove on body
• Stylish colour
• EB Lifetime Warranty
• Free shipping when ordered online

CONS

• Some may find it bulky when together (but considering what they are designed for, its accptable)
• Cost (may be priced outside of some peoples comfort zone - but is great for what you get)

OVERALL RANKING: 5 / 5